PAPUA NEW GUINEA, KOKODA (C2C STOMP FOR LEGACY)

Papua New Guinea & Kokoda (C2C Stomp for Legacy)

On the morning of June 28th 2014, three young soldiers set off on a once in a lifetime journey for charity. This stomp would see them covering over 266 km in under 10 days from Gona to Port Moresby via Kokoda track. The journey itself was unheard of amongst the local villages and no one had heard of it being done post World War II.

The trek which was led by Kokoda Campaign Tours, with owner Rob Brown and his good mate, Dino McGrath; both were veteran paramedics who had previously done the Kokoda Track multiple times.

Our chosen charity for the pilgrimage was Legacy Queensland, which we all held quite close to our hearts, due to our connection with the Defence Force and also to the support that Legacy provides to deceased, incapacitated and affected veterans, soldiers and also their families; more recently they have also began providing services for soldiers with Post Traumatic Stress Disorder (PTSD).

After flying out from Brisbane International Airport on a short flight of approximately 3hrs, we landed in in Port Moresby, staying there for the night, whilst preparing our kit for the connecting flight out to the northern city of Popendetta. From there we went onwards to Sanananda located on the northern coast of Papua New Guinea and the beach heads so prominent in the war itself. We were welcomed warmly and with great festivities, with local food and dancing being provided to us as part of the entertainment.

The beach heads played a crucial initial part into the Kokoda Campaign; with some of the fiercest fighting taking place, before the Allied Forces eliminated the Japanese forces in 1943.

The battle of Sanananda, which took place between the 19th November 1942 and the 22nd January 1943, was the longest of the three intertwined battles that saw the Allies eliminate the fortified Japanese on the northern coast of Papua. This beachhead, spread out from Gona in the west to Buna in the east, had been established to support a Japanese offensive across the Kokoda track towards Port Moresby earlier in that campaign.

This is where our group started from, landing on the beach heads on 14ft fiberglass fishing boats and heading off to the destination for camp at Popendetta. As our group reached Popendetta, it was decided to push forward another 12km, as we had averaged a pace of approximately 6.5km/hour. Our extra push, allowed us to set up camp with a total of 37km covered on the first day.

The group was feeling relieved to be on the road and we were all in high spirits as the lead up training had now been set in motion for our purpose. With the C2C Stomp team playing footy and kicking balls whenever the chance presented along the way with the local village children. The lead up training consisted of Bernhard summiting Mt Kilimanjaro on the 26th of June and Sam Weir competing in a 24 hour treadmill event for charity and assisting Conan Visser on his world record success of 1000 sets of Stairs in Kangaroo Point, Brisbane. As a team we felt we were better than ready for this momentous pilgrimage.

Day 2

4 am in the morning the alarms sounded. Our aim for the day was to tackle one of the longest stomps in distance early before the blaring 35 degree heat set in. This would set us up nicely for the coming days, and give us a chance to rest as none of us knew what the Kokoda Track itself would bring.

The team set off at blistering pace marching at roughly 6.5km/hour for the next 41km; the team crossed wild rivers and roads that had been destroyed and torn away due to cyclones in previous years. At this early stage, knowing we still had a potential of 10 more days marching, our feet became a priority, with treating blisters and toe nails as each problems arose. This was all due to the high humidity levels and the heat piercing the soles of our boots causing blisters and hot spots.

The group was thoroughly relieved as we hit the 40km mark we had reached our destination for camp; however the distance was not enough for Sam so he grabbed Bernhard’s GPS watch and ran off down the road clocking the GPS up to 42km’s in distance just so he could sleep well that night as the rain started to come down.

Day 3

Another early start for the C2C stomp team, with the final push through to a small village on the outskirts of Kokoda, known as Awala. Covering another 22km. At the Village in Awala, we were greeted with a ceremonial welcoming by the local villagers; at this point, one of our colleagues Dino had suffered some fairly large blisters; so the boys put Dino (who himself was a paramedic) through how soldiers treat blisters. Unfortunately for Dino, he didn’t realise what he was in for.

It started with Sam slicing open the blister, draining the fluid; then Mitch pouring methylated spirits on the open wound. This process dries the affected area out; whilst also killing the soreness and feeling, to allow rapid healing of the blister and open wound that the lancing had created.

The group had grown at this point, as we had rendezvoused and were now accompanied by 6 other Australians, who had joined us to cross the Kokoda Track. These gentleman would go by the names of David Everett, Adam Ball, Simon Ascroft and Peter Shaw who was accompanied by his sons Will and Tom.

The group now left early the following morning after the villagers had given us provisions and safe passage towards our final leg through Kokoda village and onto the track itself.

Day 4

The beginning of the Kokoda Track; the first hill down and everyone made it to the top of Kokoda Plateau, for an introduction to some military history and also to explain the significance of the area, where Australian defensive positions of the 39th Militia Battalions first laid eyes on the Japanese Army on the 27th July 1942.

After paying our respects to the young men that had fallen there, the group stepped off on the second part of their trip passing through the small villages of Hoi then onto Deniki and onto Isurava, before pulling up at Alola for the night.

Whilst passing through Deniki, the Rob explained to the group that this is where the Australian Forces retired to on the 12th-14th of August, and where they were then driven back to Isurava by the Japanese Forces. This push by the Japanese would lead to the onslaught that would take place on the 26th of August where the Japanese rained machine gunfire down onto the Australians, and also where human waves would attack the dug in Australian forces up the steep gullies and precipices. With Australians fixing bayonets in hand to hand combat as the 546 men of the 2/14th and remnants of the 39th faced an estimated 8000 Japanese.

There were countless acts of unrecognized courage as the young Diggers held on grimly. They ignored their lack of sleep, their hunger and their fear as they waited for assault after assault. Some positions rebuffed as many as ten human-wave assaults in a day. The Japanese dead piled up around their perimeters like sacks of grain. But they kept on coming.” (From The Spirit of the Digger).

Day 5

Leading the group onwards from an early pre-dawn awakening to visit Eora Creek. As the terrain became steeper and thicker with mud and as our feet became wet in the boots, the jungle started to enclose around us. As the days progressed along the track, we finally made it to Eora Creek where Rob Brown ran through the battle that unfolded within the jungle. Eora Creek would go down as the largest battle along the Owen Stanley Range. This is where the Japanese entrenched themselves on the commanding high ground above Eora village and engaged the Australian’s by Mountain and machine guns, causing mass casualties and deaths.

As soldiers, understanding what they were faced with in the terrain at Eora, was unfathomable. The steep inclines where stories speak of men getting shot through the head and the bullets exiting the foot left us speechless.

After the long day trekking, one of the team, Bernhard had been fighting his own battle. He had suffered a chest infection after conquering Mt. Kilimanjaro only a week prior, and due to the effects of the antibiotics, the onset of dysentery was starting to drain his energy and movement; but due to the training the group had done, the tightness of the group and his strong mindset, Bernhard pushed onwards leading into the following Village where the group would pull up for camp at Templeton’s Crossing.

As the group hit Templeton’s Crossing the weather started to change as the cloud cover became more prominent; the skies than began to open up. This rain would go on for the next 3 days.

Day 6

The planned route for the day started with the long climb uphill towards the summit of Mt Bellamy, the highest point on the track, where the rain set in for the day as the hill became thick with mud and increased in difficulty, making it more challenging to say the least.

After ascending for half the day, the group finally made the summit to then enjoy the long, treacherous downhill decent into the camping ground and small village of 1900.

At 1900, C2C members Mitch and Sam tried the local past time of chewing ‘Beetle Nut.’ As the boys stated “it’s like chewing grass and sap”. The Beetle Nut is chewed with cement lime and a locally grown mustard bean to give the full reaction of drunkenness and also to provide a euphoric high, (so to speak) that can last up to 15 minutes; it also leaves the mouth and teeth a stained red colour.

Day 7

Another early morning in which it had become routine to be awake at 4am in the morning; either from the alarm going off or Dino snoring across the valley. Without fail, the morning started with a coffee together as a group and sitting around the camp fire trying to dry the last bit of dampness out of the socks before putting them on.

Before stepping off Rob filled us in with the day’s plan of attack; in which we would be heading out to the drop zone of the Australian forces for supplies at Lake Myola, also visiting Mitch’s partner (Sophie) her Grandfathers plane in which he crashed during the 60’s, walking away from a total of 19 plane crashes within PNG.

On the trek towards Lake Myola, the terrain changed to swampy rainforest with all the flora and fauna painting a picture of a prehistoric era. Everything was abnormally large in size, from the Pandanus trees the size of 6 story buildings and leaves on plants that sting you.

Once pushing further on, the group then reached Efogi. The Village of Efogi was the battlefield of one of the campaign’s most incomprehensible battles. Efogi was where the Japanese moved forward flanking the Australian’s in a battle known as the 10,000 lantern parade. This was where the Japanese in extended formation 10,000 strong assaulted the position pushing the Australians onto Brigade hill where the Australians formed a counter attack fixing bayonets in extended line on the Japanese position. The Japanese were well dug-in and hidden behind cover. The withering fire caused horrific casualties to the Australian forces.

As darkness arrived the pressure eased just enough to withdraw the HQ down the track. The remnants of the brigade took up to two weeks to regain Australian lines through the jungles. The battle and withdrawal cost 62 Australian lives.

The group took a minute silence amongst the sticks placed to represent the 62 fallen soldiers. We paid our most utter respect for these men, men who gave their lives in sacrifice, whilst charging machine gunners to silence the assault. This was all so Australian troops could regain the initiative on the 8th and 9th of September, 1942. The group then pushed forward 500 meters down from HQ to where the Japanese had out flanked the Australian troops digging in only meters from Australian fox holes under the cover of darkness.

Day 8

Bringing a new day awaking to more rain and wet clothes; with the days plan to make Nauro before night fall via Agulogo and crossing the Brown River. This day was taken as a resting day

with only one major climb up “the wall” in which the C2C stompers where given a challenge from group member Pete. As $1000 was up for grabs, if Sam and Mitch could run up the range from Menari in a mammoth effort to beat 20 minutes. This climb normally takes upto an hour; however, the challenge stated - with packs on; a tennis ball must be passed back and forth with every drop costing $5.

So the challenge was accepted as the funds donated to Legacy were on the line. They took off slipping off the track in the first dash, running into trees and at the point of throwing up they made the summit of the ridge line in 20 minutes and 30 seconds. Pete was kind enough to still donate the total sum to Legacy upon our return. As the boys on completion were thinking “so much for a rest day…”

Day 9

Nauro to Goldie River; with the group feeling fresh from the morning brew, they trekked onwards to Maguli Range and then into Ofi Creek. At this stage of the Kokoda track it all starts to come to a point where the Japanese could see victory in their eyes as the lights of Port Moresby can be seen in the night and Ower’s Corner was within reach.

On the 16th September, after more troops had come forward from Port Moresby and dug into a defensive position at Imita Ridge, the Japanese were sick with malnutrition, dysentery, starvation and were facing exhaustion. They had been forced to fight hard to cross the mountains and had run out of many supplies early on in the campaign.

The Japanese on the Kokoda Track were then ordered to withdraw. As Australian patrols pushed forward of Imita Ridge on 28 September, they found that the enemy had slipped away, though many had decided to commit suicide by charging the Australian lines. The Australians then dragged the 25 pounder mountain gun up the famous Golden Stair Case onto Imita Ridge and for the first time during the Kokoda campaign were able to shell the Japanese dug in on Ioribaiwai Ridge with heavy artillery.

Imita Ridge held the second challenge for the boys, with having to set a record of running up Imita ridge in under 28 minutes. With Team member Sam carrying his pack, he ran off pushing hard to make the top of the ridge in 26 minutes, and beating the standard and scoring more funds for Legacy.

Staying down in the valley at Goldie river for the night, before the following days target. This would become the biggest day of the entire trip.

Day 10

Morning dawned after a draining previous day playing touch football against the “legends”. With the final ridge line to the Kokoda archway in sight the boys were given one final challenge to raise funds for Legacy. Challenge was as follows:

* Given 15 minutes to make a stretcher to transport fellow team member Bernhard across the Goldie River for $1000 in donations to Legacy.

* So Mitch and Sam went ahead, running in the dark through the jungle to gain time ahead of the group to make this stretcher out of trees and vines. With the help of the “Legends,” lashing together a pretty good looking bush stretcher. Testing the stretcher Mitch and Sam carried 60kg worth of packs across on their shoulders in great success before returning to pick Bernhard up.

After a few “almost” trips, the boys delivered Bernhard to the other side completing the task and gaining another $1000 for Legacy.

Before assaulting the final incline that seemed to be never ending up to the Kokoda archway, which was to signify the end and the successful crossing of the Kokoda Track with members of the team. We will never forget the good times and laughs along the way, as the group had gotten along very well and the laughs had made the trip more enjoyable.

Once we pushed on for the final climb to the top, we finally reached the arches with much relief and joy. The group would now part ways, as we would continue our march towards Port Moresby, whilst the other members of the group would press on to celebrations in the capital for a successful crossing of the Track. After saying our goodbyes to Pete, Adam, Dave, Simon, Tom and Will, and thanking them for the amazing adventure and stories. The boys from C2C threw their packs on and set off for Port Moresby with limited supplies of noodles and only 2 litres of water each.

This journey into Port Moresby was to take 2 days due to the 65km distance but the bright city lights called to us and we stomped as fast we could at an average of 7km/hr. Sam and Mitch were running when they could with upto 20kg worth of packs and boots, and making solid ground whilst accompanied by the remaining “Legends”. The term “Legends,” was given to the local men who accompany trekkers along the Kokoda Track and also accompanied the team on and off from Gona.

After clocking up 60km in distance, the light faded fast causing the group to pull up for camp due to safety reasons, just shy of Port Moresby. Pulling up camp in the local school under approval from the Headmaster. Clocking in an early night ready for the final stomp into Port Moresby and to the Australian War Memorial where over 3000 soldiers were laid to rest and up to 700 unidentified lay in unmarked graves forever to be named as “The Unknown Soldiers”.

Day 11

This day marked the final leg of the pilgrimage from Gona in the North via the Kokoda Track. Testing our mental strength, and pushing through sickness, emotions, blood, sweat and tears as we showed our utter most respect for the men who served Australia during the Pacific campaign.

On the horizon the group, made the final approach to the War Memorial and the Cemetery. We entered the gates as a team: Dino, Mitch, Sam, Bernhard and Rob at the fore. After 10 long days the trip came to the end.

Feeling all the emotions hitting us at once, from walking up and down the aisles of the soldiers who gave the ultimate sacrifice to protect and preserve Australian soil. It was an overwhelming place as it left us trying to understand what these young men went through; ranging from 15

year old boys who decided to protect their homeland, lie about their age and enlist within the Militia to hold back the Japanese attempted invasion in 1942.